My Corfu

Nearly thirty years ago I worked for a British national broadsheet newspaper – and I had enjoyed a good year. As one of their top performing young feature journalists, I was offered a dream assignment – a travel piece. That meant the best part of a week away, on a free holiday – and then write a thousand words about the experience – great!

I was praying:  “New York. NEW YORK”.

“Jazz, you’re off to Corfu” said my editor.

I had to check an atlas. Hmmm , it was in Greece, but also an island all of its own.

How much it was a place all of its own, I had yet to discover.

I arrived at an airport. There was a taxi, the people were instantly lovely, the weather was beautiful, Corfu Town was a slightly confusing ancient maze with a wondrous mix of architectural influences shaping the islands’ history and story with lots of little hidden squares that suddenly opened out into a highway by the sea. Then we turned right and started going up, heading North. After a hair-raising series of bends, about 30 minutes into a twisty-turny drive we suddenly turned a corner, high, high, high, above one of the most breath -taking views I have – or will ever – see. A surprisingly beautiful green island, a shining azure sea, Albania glistening in the background – and I fell in love.

And that was just the start.

I was staying in an idyllic village by the sea with many boats, a couple of restaurants, two shops and one rustic and simple – but extremely busy – bar, called Damianos. Welcome to San Stephano. I fell in love again.

But it wasn’t until I went for dinner ‘around the corner’ in a place called Kerasia – one long beach, one taverna, crystal clear water, the most beautiful little bay I had ever seen… that I REALLY fell in love.

And, once again, that was just the start.

Because then, came the people. WOW, the people.

Corfu is truly one of the most beautiful places anyone can visit, but what makes it so exceptional and different are the people – the generous, kind, incredible people – and I am now proud to call so many of them my friends.

That first night in San Stephano I met a dashing, young, hilariously witty barman called Dinos. Nearly thirty years later, one of the biggest characters I have met anywhere in the world has gone from being Dino the legendary barman at Damianos, to Dino the legendary boatman,  ferrying us all across, up and down the coast in his Boat Taxi. Most of all, he’s been Dino my friend, who’s always been my friend, from that very first night – and I really love him (if you see Dino after reading this, please repeat that to him – he will hate it – and deny we’re even friends – really loudly – but it’s true I tell you)! Also, since Dino married the beautiful woman and beautiful soul that is Marietta nearly ten years ago, I have found another lifelong friend – my little sister and partner in crime – she really is a unique and special person. They have even visited us in London – after many years of ‘nagging’ and if you know Dino, it was no mean feat getting him over there in winter! We have shared so many magical evenings and days with them both, going over to the fairy tale streets of Corfu Town, snorkelling in the crystal clear waters by the mysterious little chapel on the rocks between Agni and Nissaki, eating at one of the endless wonderful tavernas, run by equally wonderful people, offering equally wonderful food – from Nikolas in Agni, to the fabulous Nikos & Katerina’s Kochili in San Steph, to lovely Thomas in Kalami (who kindly asked me to write this article, for this magazine celebrating the island) – the list goes on and on and on, as do the tavernas – The White House, Kochili, Gallinis, Kaparelli, Eucalyptus, Glyffa, Thomas’ Place, Toulas, Cavo Barbaro, Taverna Nikolas, Janis, the taverna in the deserted old town of Perithia, up in the hills… I don’t know where to stop – or how to stop eating – once I get to any of them!

In the end though, I always end up back where my heart is, at Kerasia, with the family of friends I have made there and who have all welcomed me into their homes and hearts for three decades. There are so many memories – the amazing dinners in Tritse with my mighty and magnificent Corfiot sister (and the best chef in town!) Teresa; those special nights behind the taverna, at the ‘ladies table’, with her daughter our beautiful, talented Varvera, both of the fabulous Vassous, Koula, Roula, the magnificent Mama Irene and an endless stream of special guests – although there are rarely any men brave enough to venture around to that corner!

I have eaten goat brains at Easter in Porta (Dinos and Nikos told me I was honoured to be getting “the best part” before laughing – a lot – and for a long time), talked and laughed all night long in the heart of Corfu Town with the creative beauty that is Varvera (although we both know Teresa is always the boss!) and enjoyed delicious ice-creams with the effortlessly stylish, elegant Amalia and the warm, lovely (and always with a fantastic smile!) Alekos …

The memories – and people – go on and on and on…

Back in beautiful Kerasia – our favourite  ‘homecooked’ style Greek food, the cheeky, charming Petros, always one of the first to greet me back, every year; Yannis and his lovely smile of welcome, the twinkling eyes of the fascinating Stavros, with his dollar bills and mysterious numbers (and his super-cool , super-gorgeous daughters Effi and Eleni); lunches that never seem to end with our other British emigre mate – ‘the man with four names’ – no one seems to know which it is out of Eric/Ecco/Coco/Blue Eyes (admittedly I’m the only one who calls him this)… all people you can never, will never, forget.

Then there are the men who started it all  – the sadly gone but never forgotten legend and wonderful man, Andreas, holding court at the top table (Yammas Andrea mou) and the unstoppable, brilliant force of nature that is Nikatsas (probably with a freshly caught octopus stuck to his chest) – two brothers you will never forget! And the ‘children’ – Varvara, Adonis the island’s real ‘super-chef ‘ his beautiful wife Eleni and our little Teresa, Adonis, the delightful host, Yannis the brilliant brother (and regular guest host) – all their beautiful wives and children, the annual birthday party for ‘Little Teresa’ we have been lucky enough to be around for so many times, and now… we also have the joy of Andrikos in our lives too!

Endless drinks afterwards in Damianos with the legend that is our eponymous host and his impressive partner Maxine – and perhaps even a night cap (or three!) with feisty and fabulous Maria at Wave Bar – there have been so many days and (late) nights I will never forget.

And wherever we end up, there’s always a cab home with our old friends Giorgos and Dimitris (who we have also seen in London with his beautiful wife Jane – and incorrigible son Tomas – who ended up working for a while at my TV company after ‘work experience’ in London!) and brothers Super-Mario and Miltos – always a joy to talk to while they always get us back to wherever we are staying. From the hills of Aghios Markos – and one of Pericles Laskaris’ amazingly imaginative collection of historic villas – to spots all over San Stephano and right on the beach at Kerasia with George’s villas – to our home in recent years, in Sinies, a short walk down through the olive groves to Kerasia, courtesy of our hosts – and firm friends for life – king of the bouzouki (self-taught and brilliant!) Antonis and the mystery wrapped within an enigma that is his brother – my clever, charming, endlessly creative (not only in business!) and all round beautiful person, Yannis – who, despite all the compliments, will still never tell me what his next brilliant business plan is – until he’s already done it – often from his Aladdin’s Cave in Sinies that can magic up anything you could ever want! Our enchanting, awesome evenings with them and their beautiful family and friends, inspirational Alkmini, exceptional Katerina , at their ‘special secret place’, cooking, eating, drinking and singing together – all happy memories that make life the best it can be.

Then to experience the healing ‘Soul-Touch’ hands of Angelikki’s massage treatments is worth coming to the island for alone – a truly beautiful and special soul.

The kindness, generosity, perspective and love of life is like nothing I have known anywhere else in the world (and I did make it to New York in the end – I even lived there while working for Vogue – but nothing, not the Big Apple, not the Caribbean, South Pacific, not any of the other spots I have been so lucky to visit and work in around the world – ever quite compares to My Corfu).

That first thousand words has ended up as millions, most of them shared over just one more carafe of local wine, just one more yamas, just one more story before we go – with so many friends, so many memories and a love affair that will never end. All the friends that have become my chosen family – and the fact that they also chose me makes me, and all of us who return, year after year, the luckiest, most honoured and privileged of people. Full of love, culture, traditions (old and new), music, laughter, FUN, special friends, my heart, my home… My Kerkyra.

It’s time to stop writing (for now!) or I’ll take over the whole of Thomas’s magazine! I will never do this island – or the people I have met  – justice. Not in this article or any. Forgive me as I have not touched the surface but allow me to say from my heart and soul.

Epharisto para polly Corfu… you’re in my blood forever, I’ll see you again this year – and every year.

I really do love you.